One Year After the Invasion, Ukrainian Designers Adapt and Thrive
Almost a year has passed since Russia invaded Ukraine on February 24, 2022, setting off a conflict that has had a profound impact on the lives of millions. Ukrainian civilians, both at home and abroad, have shown remarkable resilience in their efforts to safeguard their families and preserve their livelihoods. For Ukraine’s fashion world, a vibrant and highly skilled industry specializing in luxury, bridal, and outerwear, this period has been marked by adaptation, rehabilitation, and resistance in the face of immense hardships.
Despite the challenges, the strength of the Ukrainian fashion industry shines through. Yana Olenich, founder of the renowned womenswear label Olenich, declares, “Inside we are all stronger than before. Unity and resistance are in our blood.” As we delve into the personal and professional realities of five designers one year on, their stories exemplify the indomitable spirit of the Ukrainian fashion scene.
Lasha Mdinaradze, the creative director of Gudu, considers Ukraine his fashion home, despite growing up in Georgia. While his daily routine may not have drastically changed—consisting of gym sessions, breakfast, and office work—it is the emotional landscape of the country that has undergone a dramatic transformation. Maintaining a sense of routine has become vital for his psychological well-being as he witnesses Kyiv—the city he finds endlessly inspiring—grapple with the devastation caused by the conflict.
Mdinaradze shares his struggles with the frequent blackouts that disrupt work planning. However, his perspective has shifted as he acknowledges the frontline conditions endured by Ukrainian defenders. The designer has channeled his energy into creating smart upcycled denim and patchwork pieces that serve as a visual narrative of the country’s stories. Reflecting on the situation, he remarks, “In Ukraine, we now joke that we have completely overcome procrastination. You do not have time for long reflections—everything needs to be done here and now.”
Mdinaradze’s unwavering decision to remain in Kyiv stems from his belief that he cannot seek safety elsewhere and instruct his team from afar. The united front presented by Gudu has become a formidable strength as the Ukrainian fashion industry leaves an indelible mark on the international market. “New buyers have paid attention to us, new customers have appeared,” he shares, attributing the label’s expansion in part to showcasing Gudu’s work in New York and Budapest. What once instilled fear in February now brings a smile, as Mdinaradze emphasizes, “We have goals, and we are moving towards them.”
The resilience and adaptability demonstrated by Ukraine’s fashion industry are remarkable. In the face of adversity, designers like Lasha Mdinaradze and brands like Gudu have not only managed to weather the storm but also thrive. With their unwavering spirit and determination, Ukrainian fashion continues to make waves internationally, proving that creativity and resilience can prevail even in the most challenging times.
